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Grey water valve

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  • Grey water valve

    Anyone ever changed grey water valve?

  • #2
    Yes, Just remove the large black housing under the trailer.(Hardest part of the task). Remove 4 long bolts, separate pipes. I just replaced the 2 rubber inserts and reinstalled.
    Bill & Jody
    2018 Cumberland (modified!)
    2016 F450 DRW4X hauler


    • #3
      I also replaced the grey water valve, but I got rid of the remote cabling system. I had previously also removed the black valve cabling system and replaced it with a direct release valve. Because of the location of the grey cabled valve, I had to cut it out and reposition the new, direct release valve, a little further down the line. I then cut a square hole in the black housing and put a small hinge on the removed piece of the black housing so that it can be opened and closed. Now, to open the grey valve, I open the "door" on the black housing and directly pull the handle of the grey valve. It wasn't the easiest job, but I wanted to get rid of the problematic remote cable releases. If you are interested in doing what I did, contact me and I would be happy to provide you with more information and photos.
      2013 Mobile Suites 43 Atlanta
      2012 F350 DRW 6.7L Turbocharged Diesel (3.73)


      • #4
        Put BOTH valves below. Cut access into bottom of black box as it would have been a PITA to remove.

        39TKSB3 "Highly Elited"

        2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's 37,500# GCVWR "Towing Beast" "HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600


        • #5
          Just an FYI and what I hope will be some useful information that I gathered from this forum and others many years ago. First, we are the original owners of our 2006 Mobile Suites. It still has the original "cable" / extension rod operated pull mechanism and dump valves on both holding tanks. The pulls are very easy to operate with one hand. Basically they pull with only two fingers and push with heel of one hand, with no use of any body weight in either direction. The original dump valve seals do not leak either. The old in tank sensors still work like the day we bought the unit.

          So what do I or did I do?.... In the very beginning, when other owners were discussing the dump valve handles being hard to operate back in 2006-2007, there was a discussion about making sure the extension rods came straight off the back of the pull handles with no sharp bends or turns and then gradually loop back to the dump valves. During the assembly process, the pull rods and dump valves are assembled first and the water lines and insulation put in last. In this process, many times the extension rods are either pushed up or down by both the insulation installer and the water line installer, creating fairly sharp turns as they cross over the frame and around water lines. The end results are that the pull rods are routed around water lines and also sandwiched between insulation bats and the gray waste water tank and at the same time. This type of routing forces the gray tank rod to make several turns, some that can be fairly sharp, to get get down to the gray tank dump valve. On the black tank, the same thing happens, only the extra rod material is also tucked between the gray tank and the insulation and then make a sharp turn to get back up to the black tank. At each sharp turn, the rods drag on the casing and by being a solid rod, more force is required to move them around those sharp curves in addition to any other curves around water lines. Some owners have removed the rods, cut them shorter and rerouted them. I chose to only take them loose from the handles and reroute them between water lines so that there is only one smooth gentle curve back to each dump valve back without being sandwiched between the insulation and the gray tank or making multiple turns around water lines. While I had the rods loose, I sprayed motorcycle chain lube inside both of the rod housings. This is a long lasting "wet" silicone based oil that will not gum up over time and is corrosive and dust resistant. This fixed all the initial issues of being hard to pull/push.

          Over time, the valves themselves also got harder to move and the gray tank valve began to seep around the seals. After more research on various forums and also trying vegetable oil to lube the seals once per month (which gummed up the sensors and tank walls) I decided to start using the GEO method with every dump. This is basically adding 1 full cup of a good degreasing dish soup like Dawn, Ajax Greasy Dish Formula or Palmolive, and one full cap full of Calgon Water Softener (NOT fabric softener) to a toilet bowl full of water, dump it into the tank, fill the tank to 1/3 and drive to next location. If sitting still, I do the same but in place of driving, I double the soap and water sotener and completely fill the tanks and let them sit for one hour. Then when dumping the soapy solution after arrival at next location or one hour of sitting, I open and close the dump valves 3-4 cycles to assure no debris is stuck in the seals. The soap solution provides great cleaning of the seals to prevent leaking while also lubing the rubber seals to lessen resistance to movement. The Galgon Water Softener softens the rubber seals by dissolving mineral build up, which also lessens resistance to sliding of the gate valve but, also lengthens the life of the seals by removing minerals than can harden the rubber. It may take several weeks of using the GEO method to clean the valves and sensors, took ours about 5-6 dump cycles. As they say..."Cleanliness is next to Godliness"

          Sorry for the long post, but wanted to share what I have done and continue to do. This has allowed us to still use the original remote operate pull rod system and dump valves. They actually operate better than when new. The GEO method also keeps the old in tank sensors clean and working as accurately as they can. I would think by cleaning the tank walls, as it does, the GEO method would also help with more accurate readings from the external sensors on the Garnet See Level system. Hope this helps those who have issues to this day with the dump valves being too hard to operate and clear up some tank sensor issues at the same time.
          Rick Binns

          2006 MS 32TK3, #2765, MorRyde I.S. & Pin Box, Level Up One Touch, 17.5" Wheel Upgrade
          2012 F450 6.7L Diesel w/ Air Bags, Reese 25K Signature Hitch

          "Bloom where you are planted"