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  • Toilet seal change

    The actual change is fairly easy and quick. I found out that one step is easily overlooked which is that the plastic clamps MUST be reinstalled correctly. Water will gush out the back when flushing if installed wrong. As the directions say (which I later read) the two pieces should be connected together and the SPACE positioned at the BACK. Then tighten the band keeping the gap centered in the back.
    Also found that the vacuum breaker line from the valve is better to disconnect at the valve worm clamp than try to pull off the vacuum breaker at the back of the toilet.
    David & Joyce Robinson
    2011 MS 38TKSB4 #5535
    Winter work camping Sebastian Fl.
    Summer in mountains of NC.

    Vanity slide, FP, vac, , level-up,
    thermo pane windows, dinette awning.
    240 volt dryer, residential fridge, roof
    satellite, Mor\Ryde pin box. Two bicycles
    on front, two kayaks on back.

    2008 F-350 4X4 Diesel CC LB H&S Tuner
    Pressure Pro(10 tires), fold-a-cover, train horns,
    34 gal fuel/tool in bed aux. tank, Trailer Saver.
    sigpic

  • #2
    Originally posted by MTN.DAVE of NC View Post
    The actual change is fairly easy and quick. I found out that one step is easily overlooked which is that the plastic clamps MUST be reinstalled correctly. Water will gush out the back when flushing if installed wrong. As the directions say (which I later read) the two pieces should be connected together and the SPACE positioned at the BACK. Then tighten the band keeping the gap centered in the back.
    Also found that the vacuum breaker line from the valve is better to disconnect at the valve worm clamp than try to pull off the vacuum breaker at the back of the toilet.

    Dave, Thanks for the heads up on this fix. I was surprised to see you did this fix on a 2011 suite. I have a 2010 suite and was counting on not doing this for another couple of years at least.
    Thanks again,
    Oscar
    2010 MS 36tk3 #5294
    17.5" tires and wheels
    rear camera
    Level Up system
    TrailAir C/P susp.
    Tri-Glide pin box
    2007 Chevy dually diesel
    Pressure Pro tire monitor
    Curt Q 20k
    Banks Speedbrake
    Tekonsha P3 controller
    7" Rand McNally RV GPS
    Hypertech Max Energy
    Fold-a-cover
    Oscar and Reta
    Fulltimers

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Dave, toilet water will also leak slowly into the basement as my David found out earlier this year.
      Vickie & David
      SOITC #6956


      2014 1/4 Mobile Suite Estates 38RSB3
      Alicia - Custom kitchen
      2014 F450 KR 4x4
      Titan 65g tank
      2015 Lance 1172



      Working Fulltimers since March 2005: Lucky us, we get paid to live like this !!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Oscar-It might have been premature to change it but I did because of an ongoing problem of the bowl not always holding water. I know it's no big deal but it should properly hold water as advertised. This is a 2011 unit but I got it in 2010 and started using it that winter season. Made a trip to DRV that next summer for some odds and ends issues including the toilet. The tech couldn't find anything wrong and only lubricated the pedal arm pivot. Well, that lasted a day or two then back to holding water off and on. I tried all the fixes and decided to throw some parts at it and see. Ordered a new seal kit and a ball kit on ebay. Replaced both and so far so good as it now always holds water. As a further reminder of the placement of the plastic clamps that I originally posted about I'm going to write on the inside of the shroud around the toilet base how they should go. Glad your's is flushing OK.

        Vickie-Found that out too when the water ran out the back, traveled to the back wall, and down through the pocket door area. I probably had a couple of cups (I hope that's all) go there. The problem is I fear it was yellow water. I'm heavily spraying the enclosed area with deodorizer a couple of times a day with success.
        David & Joyce Robinson
        2011 MS 38TKSB4 #5535
        Winter work camping Sebastian Fl.
        Summer in mountains of NC.

        Vanity slide, FP, vac, , level-up,
        thermo pane windows, dinette awning.
        240 volt dryer, residential fridge, roof
        satellite, Mor\Ryde pin box. Two bicycles
        on front, two kayaks on back.

        2008 F-350 4X4 Diesel CC LB H&S Tuner
        Pressure Pro(10 tires), fold-a-cover, train horns,
        34 gal fuel/tool in bed aux. tank, Trailer Saver.
        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by MTN.DAVE of NC View Post
          Vickie-Found that out too when the water ran out the back, traveled to the back wall, and down through the pocket door area. I probably had a couple of cups (I hope that's all) go there. The problem is I fear it was yellow water. I'm heavily spraying the enclosed area with deodorizer a couple of times a day with success.
          Your fears are correct. We only discovered it because when it started getting hot in San Antonio, we got a bad smell wafting up from the pocket door.

          David replaced the ball & seal (new style) both at the same time. The cleaning tool couldn't clean off the mineral buildup from a year in MO, so it was our only option. When he discovered he had put the band on incorrectly, it still didn't fix the ball staying open just a crack. It's a daily battle of flicking it shut just right or all the water leaks out. I think we may have a spring problem, but aren't willing to spend more right now. A new toilet may be in our future.
          Vickie & David
          SOITC #6956


          2014 1/4 Mobile Suite Estates 38RSB3
          Alicia - Custom kitchen
          2014 F450 KR 4x4
          Titan 65g tank
          2015 Lance 1172



          Working Fulltimers since March 2005: Lucky us, we get paid to live like this !!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I found that when Dry camping we tended to not flush at night seeing as how its just urine and flushing in the AM. This is what caused problems with my seal. The salt from the urine sticks to the rubber seal. I removed the seal and cleaned it with that Clorox under the rim toilet cleaner and it worked fine. I now find that when the bowl doesn't hold water that all I have to do is use the same cleaner and let it set in the toilet (no need to remove the seal) it will dissolve the salts and I have never had to chance the seal. I have a 2010 MS.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by don329 View Post
              I found that when Dry camping we tended to not flush at night seeing as how its just urine and flushing in the AM. This is what caused problems with my seal. The salt from the urine sticks to the rubber seal. I removed the seal and cleaned it with that Clorox under the rim toilet cleaner and it worked fine. I now find that when the bowl doesn't hold water that all I have to do is use the same cleaner and let it set in the toilet (no need to remove the seal) it will dissolve the salts and I have never had to chance the seal. I have a 2010 MS.
              Don,i have a2010ms also and have always cleaned stool with dawn once every day. i've never had a problem with it holding water and still has original seal. The only problem i've had is the fill valve leaking water into the stool and overfilling it . I was there when it happened so caught it with just a little water on floor. This is why i always turn off the water source to the suite too Anyway,the dawn is working good for me so i'll continue to use it. We'll see just how long my orignal stool seal lasts. good luck with yours. orkirk
              2010 MS 36tk3 #5294
              17.5" tires and wheels
              rear camera
              Level Up system
              TrailAir C/P susp.
              Tri-Glide pin box
              2007 Chevy dually diesel
              Pressure Pro tire monitor
              Curt Q 20k
              Banks Speedbrake
              Tekonsha P3 controller
              7" Rand McNally RV GPS
              Hypertech Max Energy
              Fold-a-cover
              Oscar and Reta
              Fulltimers

              Comment


              • #8
                I clean our seal with dish soap, Dawn or Ajax, every time we dump the black tank. Also let the valve "slam shut" with each flush. We have had the same seal on our toile since 2008 and still no issues with holding water.
                Rick Binns


                2006 MS 32TK3, #2765, MorRyde I.S. & Pin Box, Level Up One Touch, 17.5" Wheel Upgrade
                2012 F450 6.7L Diesel w/ Air Bags, Reese 25K Signature Hitch

                "Bloom where you are planted"

                Comment


                • #9
                  I sprayed wd 40 on the flapper and it seems to work.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Two days ago, I tried to flush the toilet, but nothing moved. I think the connecting rod to the half ball might have broken. Ordered new parts and will attempt to fix it on Tuesday.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My unit is 2.5 years old and had the occasional not holding water issue a few months back. I lube the rubber seal every other time I dump the black tank with a product called “Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE.” Seems to have solved that issue. That lube is also good on the rubber window seals that always seam to stick to the glass.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This type Dometic 320 simply reach in and pull out rubber seal and get it clean and then dry it. Now coat bottom of seal with Vaseline (brand) and push into place with ball closed.

                        39TKSB3 "Highly Elited"

                        2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's 37,500# GCVWR "Towing Beast" "HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

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